Modern Australian caravans almost exclusively use $12\text{mm}$ semi-rigid piping (polyethylene or PEX). This system has replaced the old-fashioned flexible hose-and-clamp setups because it handles the higher pressures of modern 12V pumps far more effectively.

• Push-Fit Connectors: These “click-and-lock” fittings allow for instant, tool-free connections. They feature an internal stainless steel “grab ring” and an O-ring seal.

  • Color Coding: In Australia, Blue piping is strictly for cold water, and Red piping is for hot water.

  • The “Stem” Advantage: Using stem-style elbows and tees allows you to create incredibly tight turns in small cupboards without kinking the pipe.

• Pipe Inserts: Crucial for safety! Whenever you use a push-fit connector on plastic piping, you must use a small plastic or stainless steel insert inside the pipe. This prevents the pipe from collapsing under the pressure of the grab ring, which is the leading cause of “mystery leaks.”

In Australia, connecting your van to a campsite tap requires a specific type of hose. Never use a standard green garden hose.

• AS/NZS 4020 Compliance: Ensure your drinking water hose is rated to this Australian Standard. Standard garden hoses contain lead, BPA, and UV stabilizers that will “leach” into your water, especially in the harsh Australian sun, resulting in a plastic, chemical taste.

• The Blue Stripe: Most compliant hoses are white or blue. High-pressure “Aquafresh” style hoses are reinforced to handle up to $150\text{ psi}$, which is necessary because many Australian caravan parks have very high mains water pressure.

• Storage: Keep your fresh water hose separate from your grey water (sullage) hose. Many travelers use dedicated “hose bags” to keep the fresh water ends clean and prevent cross-contamination.

Australian taps and caravan inlets often require a few specific “bridge” components:

• Pressure Reducers: If you are connecting to mains water, a Pressure Limiting Valve (PLV) is essential. It restricts the incoming campsite pressure to approx. $350\text{ kPa}$ ($50\text{ psi}$), protecting your internal fittings and hot water service from bursting.

• Brass Tap Adaptors: Standard Australian garden taps are usually $1\text{ inch}$ or $\frac{3}{4}\text{ inch}$. Carrying a set of high-quality brass adaptors ensures you can connect to any tap in any town.

• B-Size Bayonets: For those using external “Jerry Can” setups or drawing from a creek, quick-connect bayonets allow you to switch your pump’s intake source without needing to dismantle the plumbing.

The “Emergency Kit” Rule: Every Australian traveler should carry a small bag of “Emergency Spares” containing: two $12\text{mm}$ straight joiners, two $12\text{mm}$ elbows, a handful of pipe inserts, and a small roll of thread tape. These $20$ dollars’ worth of parts can save a $2,000$ dollar recovery fee if a fitting cracks in the middle of the outback.

• UV Damage: Plumbing that runs underneath the chassis is exposed to sun and stones. Ensure these lines are “conduited” (covered in split-loom tubing) to prevent the plastic from becoming brittle and snapping.

• Frozen Pipes: If you are heading to the Australian Alps or the desert in winter, water trapped in external fittings can freeze and expand, cracking the brass or plastic. Always drain your external lines if a sub-zero night is forecast.

• Annually Flush the Lines: Use a food-grade tank cleaner or a mild vinegar solution to flush out your hoses and internal pipes. This removes biofilm and “scale” buildup that can clog your tap aerators.

• Check the Seals: The rubber washers inside your hose connectors dry out over time. Replace them every season to stop that annoying “drip-drip” at the campsite tap.

By using only AS/NZS-compliant hoses and high-quality push-fit fittings, you ensure that your water stays where it belongs—in your glass and not on your caravan floor.